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Member postings for StephenS

Here is a list of all the postings StephenS has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Problems with a breadmaker
23/09/2018 23:18:44
Posted by Grizzly bear on 23/09/2018 18:27:51:

+ 1 for fresh yeast, it soon goes off.

+1 for really fresh yeast, it is surprising how much it can lose it's effectiveness over a short time period.

Panasonic definitely the best bread-makers.


Thread: Diamond grinding wheels
06/03/2018 00:18:38
Posted by SteveI on 02/03/2018 16:37:48: and sellers from ukraine.

Thanks Steve, I had a look and could not find what I wanted but will have another look, must have missed them.


01/03/2018 02:40:34
Posted by SteveI on 28/02/2018 22:44:23:

Just a quick comment -- CBN doesn't need to be expensive. After a tip off from a friend I have been using new old stock from ebay sellers from ex Soviet Union locations, a cost effective source of CBN. I have a number of Ø125mm wheels and the costs were between US$20-30 per wheel with free post. I use them on HSS I also purchased a "1200grit" CBN low speed lapping wheel which makes no mess for keeping tools razor sharp.


Hi Steve,

Please could you give links to where you get these as I could not find them. I may well not be searching very well though. I would be interested in getting some at those prices.

Thanks, StephenS.

Thread: M&W 7
19/02/2018 21:17:56

Thanks very much for this notice Neil - one is winging its way to me now. Cheaper than buying one in NZ.


Thread: Ten Useful Things
18/01/2018 22:15:57
Posted by Danny M2Z on 18/01/2018 10:53:05:

The Weller type soldering guns were banned from my workplace due to the ESD (electrostatic discharge) capability to damage sensitive CMOS devices,as also was solder wicking braid (it could damage pcb tracks).

Given all that, they are quite adequate for home handyman use if used with care.


I presume you are referring to the soldering guns where the wire tip is part of a transformer secondary, or are you meaning the Weller magnastat irons that use the Curie point principle for temperature control ?

Does anyone know if the Weller magnastat irons that use the Curie point principle for temperature control do realistically have any problems due to the switching of the element, which of course does not bother about zero-crossing as it is just a magnetically operated switch ? Do these have any ESD problems in real-life use ?

Thanks, StephenS.

17/01/2018 22:48:57
Posted by Geoff Theasby on 16/01/2018 02:13:11:

I've never needed a temp controlled iron, used an Antex X25 for decades. Rework gun? No. Soda-Wick is much cheaper.


Do you do smd component work with this set-up? And if so, do you find it works OK? Do you use a solder sucker at all or just solder wick?

Thanks, Stephen S.

17/01/2018 22:44:10


What model of rework station do you have please?

I have a good Weller magnastat station and a good quality solder sucker, and some solder wick. I have not ventured into smd components yet but will have to soon.

Please can you explain the advantages of a rework station, what specifically is it, does it do, etc for me the uninitiated.

Thanks, Stephen S.

Thread: ajustable vee belt
17/01/2018 22:40:08

Has anyone used this Fenner link belting and have any comments on it ?


17/01/2018 22:39:20 have Fenner link belting specifically for Myford lathes if that is what you are looking for it for.

Thread: Myford 'endorsed' oils and oil gun?
30/01/2017 04:57:29

Does anybody have any experience of these oil guns **LINK** ?

Thread: Leadscrew concertina bellows.
07/12/2016 00:08:12

I don't know if we are allowed to link to this site on here, if not then maybe the moderators could remove this post and I will say sorry in advance.

I saw this idea and thought it was a good quick and cheap solution.


It may suit you, have a look and see.

Thread: Possible new ideas for Model Engineers' Workshop
07/09/2016 02:59:26

My suggestion, would not be a short article but a series if someone could write it, would be a series on silver soldering, brazing, etc, covering it in some detail. I, for one, would be very interested in seeing this covered. We get occasional posts from CuP Alloys on here, could they be persuaded to look at this as they seem to have some real expertise in this field. Or maybe someone else who could contribute this. Maybe could cover equipment needed, looking at lower costs than oxy-acetylene, preparation, and the actual processes of silver soldering and brazing.


Thread: Bearing removal, Chuck removal, motor cleaning (drill renovation central)
27/06/2016 05:48:09

I have talked about CV joints above, but I do realise that you want this grease for your drill gearbox.

The thinner grease with more moly in it should not dry out as quickly, and the moly should lubricate the gears themselves really well, and it should not leak as long as the gearbox housing joints fit reasonably well.

Cheers, StephenS.

27/06/2016 05:36:04

Hi Rainbows,

That grease would do although it is NLGI 2 which is the average grease for car greasing, wheel bearings, etc. It is a thicker grease than I would want to use in CV joints even though the ad for it mentions CV joints.

I would prefer a slightly thinner grease and the one I would look for is the CV joint grease that comes in little foil packets. It is a thinner grease than the one you mentioned, and will cost a bit more, but it is also a higher moly content I have been told.

There will be others on here who know far more than I do about grease ratings so maybe they will be able to shed more light on this.

Cheers, StephenS.

Thread: What Did You Do Today (2016)
22/06/2016 02:54:08
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 21/06/2016 15:06:17:



The fuse is fine. Last time it blew I replaced it with an old horseshoe for luck.


A good trick that I saw some time ago (which I must try myself when I get time) is to get some garden hose and either thread it over the power cord if you have either end disconnected, or slit it and push it over the power cord near the clippers. Provides a bit more resistance to the cutter bar and gives you time to move it out of the way or slows down the cutter.


Thread: Electric motor question
08/06/2016 00:56:57

A good trick that I was taught many years ago works especially well for self-tappers into plastic, where the problem is that they will all too readily cut another new thread when reinserting them and after a couple of times there is no more material left for them to grip on to.

Place the screw into the hole, and with the screwdriver carefully and lightly turn the screw backwards, or anti-clockwise. You will feel the screw drop into the previously cut thread, when you can tighten it in the normal direction once more. This means that you are screwing into the previously cut thread, not making another new one.

Try it, it really does make a difference.

Cheers, Stephen S.

Thread: Bearing removal, Chuck removal, motor cleaning (drill renovation central)
25/05/2016 06:27:23

Don't like the grabbing the bearing in the vice idea, too much chance of things going wrong and causing damage. If the armature falls, the most likely thing to get damaged is the fan and that can be nearly impossible to repair.

The Dremel cutting disk is a good idea. If you cut a sheet of cardboard and slip it under the bearing it will keep the cutting dust away from the armature windings. Same thing doing the bearing inner race. Be careful but a very small nick in the shaft as you remove the inner race will not cause any problems at all. If you do, just smooth it out a little and put a new bearing on.

Depends if you are going in for a "making a working drill refurbishment" or a "exhibition standard refurbishment". If it is the working drill one, then I would definitely not try to remove the field coils in something this old. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it. Trying to remove the field coils to clean things up is fraught with possible problems with insulation that is old.

If you are re-using the old motor brushes, as you seemed to suggest earlier, and not skimming the commutator, (and it looks like it doesn't need doing), then you don't need to worry about bedding the brushes in. Being run in the past has already done that.

Not wanting to disagree with some on here who I know do know much more than me, just trying to be practical.

Have fun, StephenS.

24/05/2016 05:50:21

Hi Rainbows,

Just a few extra thoughts.

In case you have not seen a bearing separator before, the main advantage of them is that they have a taper on the inside of the plates so that they can be slid under a bearing that has very little clearance, or much too little space for a bearing puller. Then as you start to pull the bearing off, and get more space, you can tighten the screws and pull the plates in further and get better purchase on the bearing.

It may be possible to bodge something similar, but I don't know what your workshop holds. Which is why I suggested a motor garage or auto-electrician as they do this sort of thing quite commonly. Someone else may have a better idea than me as to how to bodge something for this job.

In the gearbox, once you have undone the chuck and the screw that holds the gear on, you may need a puller to remove the gear, or it may be more obvious from the chuck end what holds what on or in. Just take it carefully here until you are sure what holds what.

Cheers and have fun, StephenS.

24/05/2016 04:01:19

Hi Rainbows,

In a past life I used to repair power tools, so the way I would approach this would be:-

Do NOT remove the armature bearing yet. Reassemble the drill, not worrying about the motor brushes. No need to remove the gearbox grease, or if you have already removed it, no need to relubricate it just yet. The main criteria is that it all turns.

Make up a rod, about 6-8" long, from steel bar or rod that you can grind the end down to be a snug fit in the hole for the chuck key in the chuck. Hold the drill in one hand, with the rod stuck in the chuck key hole, and give the rod a good whack with a big hammer. This should loosen the chuck which can then be unscrewed by hand. Sometimes several whacks are needed, but this is the best way to loosen screwed-on chucks. As John Reese has said, the inertia of the armature and gearbox will be sufficient to resist the rotation.

Then dismantle the drill again. As you thought, if you try to lever the bearing off, you WILL damage the commutator. What you need is the bearing separator shown by John Reese, but these are rather expensive for a one-off. You could probably bodge something up. The advantage here is that as the bearing starts to move, you can tighten the separator jaws under it, so getting better purchase on the bearing. If you cannot sort out something here, try to see if a garage or auto-electrician can remove it for you.

When you have dismantled the gearbox and removed the chuck, you should be able to see how to remove the gear and chuck bearings. Then wash out the gearbox housing (kerosene or similar), replacing any bearings that you can, reassemble and lubricate it. I like to use a grease with Molybdenum Disulfide in it as you are unlikely to take this apart to lubricate it again.

The best way to clean out the windings of all the accumulated crud in there is just to give it a really good blow out with compressed air. I would prefer not to poke at anything, just to give it a prolonged blow-out. Poking could compromise insulation that old, and anything left after a really good blow-out would probably not affect things too much.

Hope that helps and have fun with your new toy.

Cheers, Stephen S.

Edited By StephenS on 24/05/2016 04:02:30 (Edited for spelling)

Edited By StephenS on 24/05/2016 04:03:21

Thread: Missing ME And MEW
06/03/2015 00:26:13

Hi Kenneth,

You could try The Miniature Railway Supply Company. I got some magazines from them out to New Zealand and they were good to deal with.


Cheers, StephenS.

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