Here is a list of all the postings Sparks has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Proxxon mill noise.|
Here's a video clip of MF70 in action...... how does the noise compare? Might be plenty more videio clips knocking about.
Edited By Sparks on 01/09/2020 15:01:50
|Thread: Proxon KS230 table saw motor 'kaputt'.|
YaYa are out of stock with that motor in the link.... BUT dig this?
How cheap can you get.... CHF 17.70 - Don't know if they have any in stock?
Forgot to mention, thanks Michael for the link... I used google translate.
Yep Barry I have a Bosch cordless screwdriver.... only thing I replaced was the batteries had it yonks, and still going., same with the mains powered hammer drill that's had clobber, even got a reverse gear on.
It's exactly the same choke in question, mine wasn't burned, popped or anything, I went to unsolder the leg and it fell away from the body, so I cut the heat shrink off, the wire is only some 40SWG... certainly not 36SWG for sure I have a drum of 36SWG, clearly something had been arching my guess was the capacitor - it only had one leg and a load of soot above.
I know what burned transformers are and coils smell like there were not of that nor any discolouring of the enamel I could see.
Looking at the splitter ain't exactly 'precision', flimsy as hell so where's the precision there, I've started to think it's not worth spending on, I do think that was an afterthought to get past the safety law.
Thanks to Micheal Gilligan I've bookmarked the link - just in case, whether I'll repair or not I ain't bothered to be honest... might even blow my mind and get a pcb guillotine - the flimsy splitter wedge saw to that, very poorly designed I'd say, they don't flap around on a proper table saw do they.
If Proxxon wants to replace it OK, I doubt I'll be handing £72 over for a thing like that..... Bearings - aren't they supposed to be greased since we are talking about two dissimilar metals and 85 Watts of heat traveling down the shaft, I bet all your Bosch, De Walt and other machinery will have grease in them?
I can agree with Barry Lever. the TBM220 still going OK, looks like they had the afterthought of missing a lamp out under the bottom where the drill fits... looks like a cut out for a lamp shade device, my guess is this would involve a little more expense.... ten minutes ON then give it a rest - that is sure a good indication of under engineering.
I Agree the prices seem high for what they are, a lump of plastic , a coil of wire... and NO lubricant in the motor!
Looking at the RFI chokes looks as if they doubled for a fuse, the wire, about 15 to 20 turns of.... about 40 SWG on a ferrite rod of some permeability - 36SWG I have is far thicker!
I couldn't resist firing my satisfaction of to Proxxon - this darn motor WAS MADE to fail in my view.
Edited By Sparks on 14/08/2020 09:51:14
Edited By Sparks on 14/08/2020 09:53:06
I only use it for cutting pcb, very rarely for fiber glass, 1 minute into operation, almighty squeal and a minute whiff of slight smoke, blade still spinning then - dead as a dodo.
Soooo, I opened it up, took the motor out and stripped it down. I thought these things suppose to have oil or grease in - nuffing at all like that, dry as a bone. Armature looks OK so did the field coils no smell of varnish as I was expecting.
One of the tiny chokes in series with the brushes was open circuit, I was about to un solder it and one leg fell off so I removed the heat shrink sleaving to find the coil intact a load of soot in the area just above a RFI capacitor that had one leg missing.
I only bought it early January last year so the warranty has just about expired, so I made my feelings known at Proxon, and doubt it's worth paying some £72.50 for a new motor... and the flimsy 'Splitter Wedge' as Proxon calls it that always seem to jam no matter what blade is being used.
I reckon some arching at been going on to create the soot, but what do you reckon on seeing no lubricant.... not even in the bearings? No over current or temperature sensor at all, 85Watt motor straight on to mains AC via a 1 pole switch.
Edited By Sparks on 13/08/2020 23:18:38
|Thread: "I'm gobsmacked", Mi' Duracell's leaked.|
Thanks Grizzly bear, I'll join the club, thanks to all who have replied.... better give this a rest now.
Take care and keep safe. Dave.
These actually worked for about 10 minutes.....!
Edited By Sparks on 16/04/2020 15:57:50
Well, like I said I was gobsmacked 4 had been in the 'Oscilloscope' for over 4 years and they worked for a while after that.... but these in the counter are the one's I put in.... the thing worked awhile then 'zilch', opened it up looked like a snow drift with white crystals I took one cell out and it had no bottom, I could see inside as it had dissipeared.
The whole lot cleaned out easily with isopropanol and was well protected... wouldn't like that happen to my Canon A640 camera, just going to have a rethink here.. If I can think on I'll look Big Clive up see if I can find the review.
Thanks for all the reply's, if I come across anything interesting I'll post back.... stay safe.
I got a Thander battery frequency counter, worked OK in the past, I put it on yesterday, worked fine then 'zilch' the six C size Duracell batteries had leaked - looked like a snow drift, it'd been on about ten minutes! One of them the bottom was completely gone!!!! Thank goodness they are enclosed in a battery case, protected by a aluminium screen underneath there was no damage done.
The very first time I've seen a Duracell leak, I also have a matching scope that runs on 4 C cells, these and other equipment was given to me by a pal many moons ago..... funny thing is this scope hadn't been used for about four years AND the batteries was still good and lasted another couple of months after usage.
Why leak now I ask? Mind you I fitted them about two years ago and the last time I checked they was OK and no signs of leak.
I thought Duracells never leaked.... and now my trust is fading.
|Thread: DC-DC converter|
How about using screen leads, grounding the outer screens ONLY at the Caliper end? Dunno if a common mode choke will work along with some decoupling caps. these will need be near the input.
Sounds like there's very little decoupling in the calipers and a high impedance on the supply line to save battery drain..... try and get the external battery to work and then the external power supply.
Probably the 'spiky' waveform getting into the digital circuitry... better with a linear reggy. You could try taking the output through a choke, say about 220uH and another electrolytic to help the ripple content.... lob a oscilloscope on under load might tell a tale.
The electrolytics in switch-mode and buck reggy's need be low ESR and not the 'bog standard' types.The LM317 needs about 1.25V min. output...... to get round this add a diode or two 1N4001 will do fine, in series with the output and a 470 Ohm to ground to 'load' the diodes, this will enable you to get down to near zero volt's. I've done this trick when building a buck booster to supply between 45 to 190V from a 12V supply to power 'battery valve' radios. For the heaters I used a LM317 with three series diodes and can adjust between 0 to 6V to use for heater supply voltages.
I would imagine the current supply for digital calipers wouldn't be very high, would be surprised if more than about 100mA..... I could be wrong.
Edited By Sparks on 05/04/2020 23:57:18
Edited By Sparks on 05/04/2020 23:58:01
|Thread: Buying online delivery problems.|
I do a fair bit of ordering and dread the post coming with this Covid-19, postmen don't seemed concerned this way, I've been tempted order various sized PCB drills with shanks from China, the last lot served me well... somehow I feel queasy now, any thought's here?
|Thread: DIY induction motor rewind|
Wonder if we need be careful about the insulation.... the enamel type? I've rewound 'radio coils' never a motor, I do know there are different types of coating, I should have mention this in my post.
Would it be an idea to measure the wire SWG or AWG first and then count the number of turns, the number of turns will be the same on all the sections, thought I'd just mention.
And as said always use the start and finish of the winding in the same direction.... there are motor rewind firms, how much they charge I wouldn't like to guess, better to sit down and then ask.
Should you get stuck for 'magnet wire' I get mine from UK wires
Edited By Sparks on 26/03/2020 17:12:17
|Thread: Virus Alert Levels|
I reckon we were slow off the mark as usual, from the word go there should have been lock-down - folks arriving at airports weren't being checked, I won't be surprised if things get worse we ain't seen nothing yet.
All our local stores had ran out of loo paper and many other stuff, bags of empty shelf's. Ah, well, an excuse for the government to raise the tax. I was quite surprised to see one chemist had shut it's doors with a notice on it's shutters.... right next door to two doctors surgeries and health clinic.at that.
|Thread: Proxon KS230 splitter blade jams|
Thanks Old Mart, I do have a Tungsten Carbide blade... I thought I'd tried it, it still looking intact in the seal, "Whoooa Davy lad, owd thi reigns lad", now that's 0.55 thick, slightly thicker than the problematic one - better try that and prompt, dunno what the cut is like but we'll be finding out.
I can get a diamond blade for the KS230 but very seldom use fiberglass, I do use it once in a while for VHF circuitry and the odd power supply, I use the cheaper stuff mainly, paper resin or phenolic.
|Thread: Sound recording|
A sound activated switch comes to mind here, as soon as there's sound triggers an electronic switch that turns the recorder on.
|Thread: Proxon KS230 splitter blade jams|
Yes I had that thought of grinding the outer edge of the lead in, that ought to help guide the 'wotsits' into the cut, I've checked everything I can think off.
Now there's a point, with this specific blade Proxon 28-020 the cotter fits in the cut with no play at all, when using the incorrect blade 28-014 which has wider teeth I get no problems and there is play of the cotter blade in the cut... I have two of these blades so I tried one on fiberglass board - it ruined the blade in two cuts! I knew it would but didn't expect it so quick, this blade is for soft/ hard wood and cross cuts.
Should there be play in the cut?
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