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Tooling for Centec2 mill

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sean logie15/07/2017 12:24:29
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380 forum posts
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A riser block would be no use to me because I don't have a vertical head ,even if I could find one I wouldn't be prepared to pay the ridiculous prices they make .

not done it yet15/07/2017 12:51:13
997 forum posts
3 photos

You are going to need some long end mills if you want to use them in the horizontal 2MT taper? I can't see much advantage of using it as a vertical mill on its side. Undoubtedly there are some jobs, but few that would not be easier on a vertical miller.

There is only about 4" of cross travel available? You won't find many u-toob videos using a horizontal milling machine in this fashion.

If it were that good, they would not have bothered to supply the vertical head!

sean logie15/07/2017 14:04:54
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380 forum posts
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I've yet to learn the Centec 2 ,from what I have researched to great length the horizontal mill is a very underestimated machine . I have a few ideas in the coals regarding a vertical head .... I wouldn't call it a bad machine ,anyways the main reason i bought the mill was to learn and not to be knocked for asking ,I really see that as counter productive everyone has to start somewhere,not everyone can afford and go out and buy the fancy milling machines .Some, myself included don't have deep pockets (I am a scot after all) I'm more than happy with the little Centec2 mill .

And eh not done yet ....I am here to learn !!!

Sean

JasonB15/07/2017 14:15:46
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11298 forum posts
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Using the horizontal hole to drive endmills, flycutters and boring heads is going to be a hell of a lot easier than trying to do it using a vertical slide on the lathe so worth while using that method while you keep an eye out for a vertical head, It will make a very good littel horizontal borer.

Best thing to do is once your vice is painted up is mount it along the length of the table and see how close the edge of the jaws come to the spindle nose. This will give you an idea of how much room you have to play with, if it goes quite close to the nose then MT collets will be the shortest option, nexp up would be a couple of weldon shank holders with an ER25 or ER32 collet chuck needing about 2" space.

I really don't see why long endmills wouild be needed, infact as the table goes almost to the horz spindle noze you are more likely to find you need short series cutters rather than long ones as the dia goes up.

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 15/07/2017 14:18:01

Edited By JasonB on 15/07/2017 14:21:34

Keith Rogers 215/07/2017 14:35:33
39 forum posts
1 photos

One advantage I found when I had my 2B was if I had a job that was too tall to

go under the vertical head I could lay it flat and use an end mill or fly cutter in the

horizontal spindle. Effectively giving me the capacity of a much bigger machine.

Keith

sean logie15/07/2017 16:04:57
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380 forum posts
30 photos

Thanks Jason and Keith ... can beat a good bit of encouragement advice boy I need it cheeky

Sean

JasonB15/07/2017 16:10:09
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Yes you can use them on quite large items, like this chap on TT the only limit is your imagination. One mill driving an extended spindle with home made support and a second mill holding the worksmiley

tool1.jpg

sean logie15/07/2017 16:47:32
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380 forum posts
30 photos
Posted by JasonB on 15/07/2017 16:10:09:

Yes you can use them on quite large items, like this chap on TT the only limit is your imagination. One mill driving an extended spindle with home made support and a second mill holding the worksmiley

tool1.jpg

smile o

not done it yet15/07/2017 16:59:55
997 forum posts
3 photos

Yes, I will retract some of my previous post. I'm only a learner with the mill. Certainly not an engineer like some on the forum.

Not knocking you at all. Discussion helps us all. And if it gets a response from JB, that is good.

(para)Certainly better than milling on a lathe. What I was thinking is that you got it for a song, so a vertical head would be a great addition. Certainly worth saving up for. All the good bits are expensive, these days. Cheap chinese is cheap for a reason.

(para) I would be hunting around for a vertical head - they can be expensive, but don't eat anything and, as far as I can see, will hold their value - as they ain't making them any longer.

(para) I reckon a good Centec is likely better value than a modeller's

chinese vertical mill, and with the extra opportunity to mill horizontally. My Raglan is used for smaller items and when the other mill is set up for something else (but the power feed on the Centec makes a big difference, too). Looking at reports, many Centecs are only used vertically - a wasted opportunity, as the horizontal arbor is so much more rigid, being supported at both ends.

You can bet that Rod gets flatter finishes than one would easily with a flycutter, which needs perfect tram, or several passes with a small milling cutter.

Paul White 315/07/2017 17:36:15
38 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Sean, Don't be discouraged by adverse comment. I am a centec nut and would promote the brand

The lack of a vertical head did not stop me making 2 steam loco's both 3.5 gauge on a centec model pre the series 2.

The use of morse taper holders in the horizontal arbor hole was my starting point. I found the application of a hammer to release the taper distressful and made the holders with a threaded nose, with a nut to draw the collet out when changing the cutter, I would fully recommend this design.

A centec 2 obtained some years latter inherited the collets that are used in the horizontal arbor and a vertical head I made some time later. You do not need to starve to save money for buying the centec Vertical head.

I have taken some photo's that may help you but am having problems loading them. Have fun with the centec.

Paul

sean logie16/07/2017 20:35:48
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380 forum posts
30 photos

Decided to make a another arbor for the Centec2 today ,nearly done just to machine the mt2 taper . The left hand thread turned out really sweet ,the old Fortis did me proud she was taking some very big cuts today . Another question I'm going to ask ,should I harden the arbor ?. will the heating process warp it at all ?

Thanks for looking

Sean

not done it yet17/07/2017 09:42:49
997 forum posts
3 photos

Heat treatment always has the risk of warpage, however slight. Usually finish-machining of some description is carried out afterwards, but not always of course. Final hardness, after tempering, does not necessarily preclude further turning but usually surface grinding is the way to finish a precision piece? But what pecision is required for the job in hand?

I reckon a morse taper would be better hardened as any small dings in the future can affect its seating accuracy. But if you are easily able to cut a morse taper there is no real problem to make another if it gets damaged at all. I have found that getting a good contact area, along the length of the taper, is challenging for a non-expert such as me (but, there again, some tapers only need to have good contact at each end, the middle section being relieved).

So, my extra arbor for my Centec was made using a bought-in hardened morse taper with soft blank end.

sean logie21/07/2017 13:13:24
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380 forum posts
30 photos
Have painted and assembled the Centec 2 ,also started to make another arbor .

https://www.flickr.com/photos/99483750@N08/shares/U010R0


Sean

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