3D Printer Test Piece

Cura seems to be very effective at repairing broken meshes.

There's also a microsoft site where you can upload a broken file and download it as a repaired one.

Neil

Thank you chaps. now got 30 days to get to grips with fusion 360, will let you know how I get on in a few weeks time, sooner if I make any breakthroughs.

Ian

Be careful when using Acetone, I have used it and MEK for repairing fairing and bumpers in the past.

Both are very flammable, use in VERY well ventilated areas and wear protection.

Both carry the following warnings!

DANGER! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR. VAPOR MAY CAUSE FLASH FIRE. HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF INHALED OR ABSORBED THROUGH SKIN. AFFECTS CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM. CAUSES IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT.

I found an interesting Youtube channel for learning Fusion. Here's a sample. It takes you step-by-step through creating small bite-sized 3D drawings.

Acetone is much safer than MEK. Think nail varnish remover, but please don't go drinking it.

Neil

CEL Robox finest print setting straight from the bed

Benchy should print without support, should be much cleaner done without it.

Neil

Here you go!

Force of habit using support material - too many failed prints otherwise

My son does test pieces to establish the shrinkage is xyz, then makes the correction to the model and away they go. Sometimes they in ways that don't seem the way initially. They do this to get the unseen side is often the side that is down and has support material etc, the seen side is the top face or the seen side. The finished products look fairy good. They use an UPbox printer and have made their own material feeder, it keeps track of how much filament is used and can see before they print if there is enough filament or not.

Neil

Yesterday I stared a reel of filament off e+Bay, only £11 because it is 'baby blue', but ideal for a job I'm doing.

I think the results are 'almost perfect prints', without close examination they look like injection moulded parts, no stringing or distortion. But they aren't to challenging, now printing some parts with large overhanging pipes, taht will be the real test.

@Andy, I wonder what is causing that rough surface texture in some places and not others. Try measuring your filament, if it's oversize it may be over-extruding.

Thanks Neil, I'll have a look - am using up stock ABS from CEL but they admit theirs is not the best, ColorFABB is higher grade and I see from CEL website they are offering techABS low shrinkage now - ever changing!

When I acquire a Polysher I'll change filament accordingly - may be a couple of months away yet

Started having an intractable problem over the last week, gradually getting worse... patches of over extrusion, typically on small sections near big ones, or after complex bits of outer skin.

I think I have found the issue, my 0.4 nozzle is worn to at least 0.6mm! I'm sure it hasn't lasted as long as the previous one.

Not sure of the 'mechanism' but it will be interesting to see if a replacement nozzle improves things.

Neil,

How much filament have you put through the problem nozzle?

- Nick

About 2 reels.

Very cheap ABS printed from a Qidi Tech 1 with Makerbot standard settings.

Been trying to get a flatter top surface for quite some time but I see from most results that I'm well within the boundaries.

Will post results from a higher quality setting later.

The only way to flatten the top surface is to reduce the layer thickness.

Now you've tempted me to try 0.06mm!

I read an online test of using hot air to smooth PLA, so I tried it with my rework gun. Don't do it on 'engineering' objects, it might suit 'artistic' subjects.

Neil

If the nozzles wear so quickly, would it be possible to make replacements from something harder, or from steel that can be heat treated to maximise hardness? (Am assuming that it will not matter too much if the nozzle is brittle since it is unlikely to suffer any impacts)?

Howard

They need to be brass so the very tip stays nice and hot. At 10 for £2.37 they are consumables, that's about 12p for every £11-£15 reel of PLA.

The benchy printed almost OK, lovely finish with ~2-thou steps, but I got two missed steps in X which is really annoying and a bit confusing. It is the first benchy where I can read the text on the stern.

Funnily enough this PLA cost me £22 for two reels and it seems to be the best yet! Branded 'Surreal'.

I did a seven hour print the day before with no glitches.

Printed using Makerbots high setting. Visibly a much poorer print but the surfaces do look & feel a lot smoother. The hull where it's close to the bed is the worse, is this down to the heated bed? Will it help to speed up the axis or turn down the heat settings?