|Michael Bird 1||14/09/2016 19:00:07|
|36 forum posts|
I have spent the last 6 months building my workshop. I started with a 16' x 12' shed and I insulated the walls, ran electrics with 12 double sockets, and then boarded the walls and painted them.
The lighting is 4 double striplights 5 foot long. The floor is 2" bearers carrying a one inch timber floor which is insulated and then a 30mm MDF placed on top and a rubber matting on top of that.
I have built two benches, one to house the machines and the other to work at.
The whole build log can be viewed here:
Here's a few photo's.
|1844 forum posts|
If mine looked as good as that I would never dare use it. (Just jealous...)
|Roderick Jenkins||14/09/2016 19:23:21|
1398 forum posts
A Myford lathe and a Sharp mill. That man's got taste (and some space).
|Jeff Dayman||14/09/2016 19:26:57|
|1019 forum posts|
Looking great Michael, well done. JD
|alan ord 2||14/09/2016 20:49:24|
|47 forum posts|
Great looking workshop but if you don't want problems with rust get rid of the gas heater!
|damian noble||14/09/2016 21:19:30|
138 forum posts
|Why the red light on the wall?|
2858 forum posts
Lovely. You could rent it out as a holiday let.
|Michael Gilligan||14/09/2016 21:32:29|
|9919 forum posts|
He's also an Astronomer
|Michael Bird 1||14/09/2016 21:38:35|
|36 forum posts|
Yeah the red light is so I can set the scope outside and use the workshop as a warm room. The red light protects my night vision.
Alan whats the problem with the gas heater then?
|duncan webster||14/09/2016 22:15:25|
1128 forum posts
firstly condensation, all the products of combustion, carbon dioxide and water, are vented into your workshop, and the water condenses on your lovely machines
secondly, when I last the sums it's actually cheaper to use electrical heaters than buying gas in bottles. Check again as prices vary
If you want to use gas get a balanced flue heater (if you can find one that runs on bottled gas), but you'll need advice on how to install it in a wodden structure.
|Martin 100||14/09/2016 22:31:12|
|160 forum posts|
The uninsulated roof is IMHO a big mistake. Insulate with 200mm of PIR and you might not need any additional heat if you can maximise winter solar gain through the windows (and reduce summer solar gain with shading / overhangs) Build a solar air heater on a south facing wall and you definitely won't need to spend anything on heating
2201 forum posts
I'm on a similar journey although I think it's fair to say I am some way behind you. When I looked out there a couple of weeks ago there was a perfectly good (single) garage and an outhouse....
Not content to wait for the building to be quite complete, I've already started out on the task of filling the new workshop. After all, you have to take these things seriously.
Shizuoka CNC milling machine (2.75 tonnes of it):
3451 forum posts
Wow wht looks luxurious.
Get rid of the plastic cover over the lathe. Just because it is sold by myford doesn't mean it is a good idea as it will sweat. Use a cotton sheet. Also get a dehumidifier.
|Bob Youldon||15/09/2016 00:05:39|
|154 forum posts|
Good evening Michael
Some very good advice regarding your new shop, the gas heater will turn everything brown when you turn your back, if the shop is as well insulated as you say then a simple 2kw fan heater will keep you and everything at an even temperature, put it on a clock for an hour in the early hours of the morning and about half an hour around seven in the evening and you will prevent any condensation, everything will remain above dew point.. I've a timber, well insulated workshop with a similar heating regime and I've never suffered with rust but whatever you do don't do any soldering etc inside, that'll set the dreaded rust off. I've a cover much like yours for my Myford and it's been in a cupboard for the last forty years, never on the machine!
What exactly in your new vast abode do you intending making?
252 forum posts
Normal shed on the outside. Light and airy on the inside. Nice.
|frank brown||15/09/2016 06:52:57|
|436 forum posts|
Too late now but MDF is not right for flooring, you should have used 22mm P5 grade T&G flooring panels. The previous occupant to my house used bits of MDF for shelving in the garage, in the long term (>5 years) it bows under its own weight. Some of my shelves are spectacular in their curves. Must get round to to replacing them
|Speedy Builder5||15/09/2016 07:50:40|
|1233 forum posts|
Michael - Looks like a great place you have built there and hours of pleasure to be had in it, but DO INSTALL some sort of FIRE protection. I have an Extinguisher 'bomb' which although messy if it ever went off, is non toxic and automatic. They cost about £300, but allows you to sleep at night. And it goes without saying - SECURITY.
|frank brown||15/09/2016 08:25:25|
|436 forum posts|
Shame to hear that Speedy, what caused it to do that? Not sure about their efficiency but under the bonnet CO2 systems are cheaper, too small a volume?
11298 forum posts
Your MDF will be fine as you have floated it on the subfloor so its fully supported, just watch it around the doorway as you have not used mositure resistant MRMDF if there are a lot of wet feet going in & out.
As others have said the roof could do with insulation, Kingspan or Celotex between the purlins would be best.
|715 forum posts|
Please give more details about the extinguisher bomb. I have just goggled "extinguisher bomb" and it appears to be a hand thrown device. Interesting and useful but you cannot use it in your sleep. Is there a similar device which is activated when a fire is detected (and you are asleep or watching the Antiques Roadshow)?
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