Here is a list of all the postings Dave Halford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dropping 12v dc to 6v dc|
Sorry, I was suggesting centre tapping the 12V battery, it's the simplest system, but possibly a bit 'old school'. For me Vintage and electronics don't mix
|Thread: Are we Luddites?|
Only when we go moving mills about on tiny wheels
|Thread: Dropping 12v dc to 6v dc|
One of these maybe?
|Thread: How to adjust the alignment of the head-stock on a BG1224 lathe|
You don't say how much use the machine has had.
Is the saddle too loose? If the back lifts try tightening the clamp till it drags a bit.
Will a dial gauge on the tail stock run parallel? If so it's likely bed wear (assuming you move the saddle a lot less than the tailstock.)
Does it run parallel if you just use the top slide?
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Motor Pulley|
There's a genuine new Myford motor pulley on the Bay - buy it now (confess I just put it there)
If you want it now's your chance, if you don't never mind.
|Thread: Ceramic disc regulator|
Suggest you dismantle one and see the way they are built.
|Thread: Back gear repair|
Beware of cast iron welding rods - you need ones almost entirely Nickel otherwise it will not machine with HSS gear cutters.
|Thread: How to remove a chuck from a Boxford model A|
What normally comes next is the substitution of 'hand' for hammer which is how the key holes get cracked.
Generally, how gummed up is the rest of the lathe? Old oil sets like glue over time so if it's been undisturbed for tens years or more there may be old oil acting like thread lock. heat will loosen it, you only need 50C then it should come off normally.
|Thread: coaxial indicator|
Try a hair dryer, old oil goes gummy and sticks thing up. The heat loosens it enough to get some WD in there to dissolve it.
|Thread: Phone Scam|
If you type these numbers into Google the search results can be very illuminating.
|Thread: Heating Tapes for Machine Tools|
Green house heater 60w per foot
|Thread: Maching flats|
Pretty much as Ian Parkin says.
I would clamp your round at 90 deg. to the mill table using an angle plate (assuming as you have a small Horizontal mill you will have neither a vice large enough to hold 1.5inch dia, nor anything to hold an end mill vertically.)
Mill the first flat at what ever your required depth is by adjusting the knee height.
Rotate the round 180deg and reclamp with packing in the flat just milled (a piece of square lathe HSS will do) so that it is above the table. the untouched end needs packing with the same size HSS + the gap left between the table and your round so that the round is parallel to the table as before.
Adjust the table height for the correct depth of cut
Mill your second flat.
|Thread: Home workshop fatal tragedy|
Saw a cabin cruiser go up due to propane back in the 60's, by the time the Brigade had found a rowing boat to reach it there was nothing left higher than 4" above the water line..
|Thread: Need chart for a Excel Rotary table.|
Plenty of accurate charts are available via google.
Charts are for plates though, they give you the number of holes and which row etc.
|Thread: Rotary Table|
better for gear cutting and cutting splined shafts.
will give you angles assuming your machine is big enough.
Best used flat so good for drilling circle plates
some will mill curves if the gear and worm are up to it and some will strip the threads.
OK for any dividing that does not need a tailstock suport
|Thread: Milling curves|
A heavy duty rotary table would be better something with decent size teeth on the worm and wheel.
|Thread: Oldsmobile electric steam carriage (latest edition of ME)|
I still remember the B&W film of Italians getting in the spaghetti harvest shown by the BBC midlands news.
|Thread: Clever invention|
Always worth reading the Screwfix reviews someone will have found a drawback, in this case a larger drill than normal is required,
|Thread: Tangs not on centres|
The tangs are used to drift out the taper via the slot cut in a drill press. Tailstocks do not have the slot and therefore the tang is deleted
|Thread: Un workable steel|
This raises a somewhat off topic issue of motor ratings.
The motor plate will have the hp or Kw output on it and right next door it should have the rating as CONT or INT.
CONT gives you continuous output at that power output all day. INT gives you intermittent power output for something like an hour or less. Then it needs a cool down period like a welder does and so must be run lightly loaded for a while.
Some machines with electric speed controllers will blow the electronics instead when you stray outside the duty cycle. Trouble is it's difficult to tell how hard we are driving our motors.
Same result though. Ouch, my wallet hurts.
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