Here is a list of all the postings MalcB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Waterless Hand Cleaners for Shop Grubby Paws|
Use Warrior soft touch, powder free Nitrile gloves 90% of time when in workshop or working on bikes. Sourced from industrial stockist 1 mile from me.
No gloves when extra feel is needed, then Swarfega plus large two ply rolls of blue paper to wipe off. Good enough till full indoor wash.
Edited By MalcB on 25/02/2017 14:40:52
|Thread: Nice small lathe ( CVA )|
I think people may get cautious about buying when there is minimal spares available. Very little information about if you have to dive into the drive and gear systems. This is a rarer model with next to no chance of decent spares. It would be a similar situation with a Monarch 10EE or similar where people have to go via the States.
In comparison there is a bit more of a market for the Hardinge toolroom lathes as they were more plentiful, so good ones do tend to command a reasonable price. Another reason may well be the factor of their weight, They can easily fall out of the range of the cheaper engine cranes and other lifting equipment available to the home engineers.
|Thread: Economy Hit & Miss Engine Build.|
SAE 660 is a good all rounder and suitable for light duty bearing operations.
Phosphor Bronzes like PB1 when used for bearings or gears are only really needed for medium to heavy duty applications.
There is a build on this site ( apologies first as not sure how to make this a direct link ).
|Thread: Drill Chuck Recommendations for Drill Press|
If you have gone to all the trouble of restoring a Pollard why settle for anything less than a good Jacobs chuck?
It wasnt an industry standard for nothing as a good all rounder. Likely more of these originally fitted in jobbing shops than any other brand.
I have a Kerry back geared pillar drill yet to do and when it's done it will have either a Jcobs or a Cardinal chuck on it ( if i can get my hands on another good one ).
|Thread: Scaling drawings|
Agree mass x specific gravity = weight.
So lets do an exagerated example of two materials I can remember the specific gravities of:
2 cu inches of steel ( 0.27lbs/cu in ) and 2 cu inches of lead ( 0.36 lbs/cu in ).
This equals 0.54lbs and 0.72 lbs = 0.18lbs difference
Scaled by factor of 8 = 4.32lbs steel and 5.76lbs lead = 1.44lbs difference.
Therefore the difference does scale up by eight.
So unless i have missed something, yes i think i agree with whats being said.
I dont think it will balance Tim.
If you scaled an alloy piston say 100% it will not have the same weight as a steel block scaled 100% dimensionally because of their varing specific gravities. Mass will scale but the weight wont I dont think, maybe I am missing something though.
Edited By MalcB on 18/02/2017 17:13:27
|Thread: Boxford lathe gurus...|
Yes,now think deffo away from home job given two similar..
Easy job to machine the headstock with stub arbor on horizontal mill.
Now leaning towards Dollis Hill in favour of factory, but could be factory, who knows. The Holbrook lathe ( ex Dollis Hill ) to replace Boxford post recently certainly bears out they invested in decent kit there. Would have love to have seen pics of their set up.
|Thread: MEW 252|
I will leave mine off and put it on Ebay for £80k as a missprint
|Thread: New Holbrook Lathe to replace my Boxford|
Hi Joe and welcome.
Yes this is quite uncanny that another lathe from this establishment should surface.
Looking at the spindle limits that you are chasing is taking you into higher end toolroom standards which is where quite a few of these Holbrooks ended up. Not massive swing capabilities given the size and bulk of the machines, but within their limits were very precise and accurate in what they could consistantly produce.
Toolrooms of this era tended to use similar sized machines for the more detailed work and some of the larger DSG's for bigger capacity requirements.
It does go some way to confirming that the PO research facility did in fact have a decent budget for their equipment. Dont know the actual figures are for the weight but at a guess its got to be 1000kgs plus.
This should keep you busy for a while and will no doubt end up a real satisfying piece of kit for you. Such a lot of lathe to digest.
Edited By MalcB on 16/02/2017 07:03:19
|Thread: Cheap chucks from ebay.|
Like quite a few others I have ended up with a collection of chucks.
At the moment I have only the one Chinese chuck being the RDG HBM 125mm self centring 4 jaw chuck. This is quite a quality piece of kit for its money and I wouldn't hesitate to buy or recommend another HBM chuck if cost is prohibitive.
I have a Pratt Burnard 160mm 3 jaw and one of their 200mm 4 jaws plus a 6" 4 jaw slim body chuck of theirs.
My favourite two chucks by far however, are a 160mm TOS 3 jaw and a new TOS 125mm 3 jaw ( which i aquired at knock down price ). They have more sensitivity and feel more precise than the Pratt. All mine are D1-4 mount either direct or on backing plate.
For a Quality lathe like you have I would seriously recommend looking at getting a deal on a new TOS chuck. The self centre 3 jaw normally becomes the most used chuck and if you can stretch to it I would choose this one carefully.
I do have a Bison 160mm slim bodied 4 jaw chuck D1-3 direct mount surplus if you are stuck for one, Needs a chuck key.
Edited By MalcB on 15/02/2017 16:30:30
Edited By MalcB on 15/02/2017 16:31:46
|Thread: Warco WM18 T Slot size|
Edited By MalcB on 15/02/2017 14:15:26
Yes you could use flat strip 12mm thick but not an ideal way of doing it. My T nuts are stopped about a thread short of going right through the T nuts. Deliberatly done to stop the studs going through and locking the T nut by way of the end of the stud.
If you use 12 mm strip doing this would only leave about 11mm of effective thread grip. The ideal amount of thread hold for any sort of clamping forces or stressed items is a minimum of 1.5 x thread/stud diameter so for M10 you ideally need 15mm minimum. T nuts are an ideal simple milling project for a MW18. Blacked in oil look OEM as well.
My VMC has the same 14mm Nom slot width.
If you are thinking of a new clamp set then a little food for thought:
I bought the standard 14mm x M12 clamp set available for this T slot size.
IMO after using it for a while I found it overkill and rather clumsy ( big clamps etc ) for the table size, so I opted to buy the next size down M10 clamp kit and made 6 x new 14mm x M10 T-Nuts. I find this more suited for my needs and more a balanced/matched set for this size of table and machine size.
I have kept the first clamp set per chance it was needed and it has been just a couple of times, but only because I needed some addition studs and clamps for a double setup i had on the table.
|Thread: Nice small lathe ( CVA )|
Yes, as Dave says, this one is quite similar to the Monarch 10EE which I have worked on and which was a first class toolrom lathe.
I have seen one or two of the larger versions of their toolrom lathes in other toolroms and machine tool dealers, they were reputed to be very good quality machines but never managed to use one. Never seen one of these shorter bed versions, but looks a nice machine to have.
In my earlier years CVA were more widely known for their automatic lathes. We had a whole shop full of their cam operated autos when i was at Ferranti Ltd.
|Thread: Machining EN24T|
EN 24T and similars
Surface speed for HSS about 45ft/min.
Roughing for HSS about 0.005/0.006" per rev
Finishing for HSS about 0.002/0.004" per rev
At least 3 times or more faster for good quality inserts tooling.
Home workshop speeds here, not industrial
Edited By MalcB on 12/02/2017 20:23:49
|Thread: Quality digital vernier calipers|
|Thread: Boxford lathe gurus...|
I personally do not think its an ex Boxford factory fit for several reasons:
The dimple locations in place of more positive parallel pin locaters indicate to me it was intended for nothing more than angular marking out. A research establishment would not need to do this on a lathe. They would have much better equipment for this purpose. As others have said there is/are no other signs of provision for additional machining or work holding on the lathe to supplement anything else other than this.
It would more than likely be far more beneficial to somebody who did not have other means to provide indexing, does not have a milling machine and/or just has a good bench or pillar drill.
5 degree increments would be a good single incremental denominator for home workshop engineering, to supplement many subsequent drilling operations.
I do not think Boxford would clamp a locating block on the headstock directly on a painted surface, not good practise for any machine tool maker. I do think that Boxford if they had fitted the block, they would also have painted the block.
When this lathe was produced, good indexing equipent was very expensive and beyond the economical reach of many home engineers, especially in smaller proportions.
As others have mentioned, It was not uncommen for machine tool makers to supply a pot of paint with the lathe so could easily have been done by an owner.
For somebody building up their home workshop portfolio, lots of jobs like skimming the headstock, making the index plate, the location block etc could well have been done at their workplace as "foreigners".
My comments are in no way intended to be derogatory to the owner, in fact quite the contrary as for a Boxford AUD I think its actually right up there amongst the top ones i have ever seen, ( and owned ) especially in their original paint.
Having recently been on an invited factory tour of the Boxford factory I must say there is no resemblance to the historical pictures you see of their once main line production facility that was producing the machines that most people know them for.
I also respect the comments the OP posted about the Colchesters as I also had the round header Master and sorely missed it after I had my last Boxford AUD, such that I moved the Boxford on, in favour of a bigger machine.
Edited By MalcB on 12/02/2017 09:24:35
|Thread: Economy Hit & Miss (possible build)|
Yes, confirm my drawings showing same
Is this on the wrong thread J ?
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