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Member postings for richardandtracy

Here is a list of all the postings richardandtracy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Ebayer refused to sell to me - on their avoid list
23/01/2017 15:02:11

What the heck did you expect? Tell someone they are rubbish & then expect them to repeat the humiliation?

I don't think so.



Thread: Clarke CBS45MD Bandsaw problem
23/01/2017 14:21:06

I have a question: Does yours automatically switch off when it has cut through the work?

I have never been able to get a setting on the switch poker that actually switches the switch off when the arm drops after finishing cutting the work. I think the rubber over the buttons on mine is too stiff and doesn't allow the button to be pressed fully.



Thread: Tube cutting
23/01/2017 14:16:34

Whenever I hear someone say 'Accurate' I always want to ask 'How Accurate?' as that will have a fundamental impact on the method of cutting. An other thing to consider, too, is if you can machine post cutting? If the response is 'Accurate to microns and no post machining' then you can almost only be considering electron beam/laser cutting, while 'Accurate to nearest half inch' could imply a hand held angle grinder. With anything in between being determined by the actual answer.

To give an answer before the 'how accurate' question is answered is, in my view, premature.




Edited By richardandtracy on 23/01/2017 14:17:55

Thread: Electric Drill-drivers with dead batteries
19/01/2017 16:21:47

As it happens, in the cold weather my 4yo car battery is struggling & as a result, my drill-driver is going to have a new (ish) 12V lead acid battery. Strange how things turn out.



Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)
19/01/2017 15:30:06
Posted by Michael-w on 18/01/2017 16:06:16:

Thanks Richard, I think that could come in handy when I want to anneal a casting that may not be necessarily be completely machined, thus preserving the surface from the cool down and reduce condensation. The coconut charcoal, may also be absorbing any build up of moisture from the casting, so that oxygen in the water does not get enough time to form a decent rust layer.

I was also thinking that I could wrap the castings in a kind of copper sheet housing, as the melting point is high above (1000ish) the range of my 900c furnace, and it has a good heat conductivity, the action of heating the copper as well as the iron could retard the cooling times as the furnace very gradually cools down, anyone think this could work?

It should be noted that the cavity size in the furnace is only around 9" square opening, so I can only fit small components inside (unfortunately!)

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 18/01/2017 16:08:33

My wife uses one of the 100mm deep 1/6 gastronorm pans, as seen in this e-bay sale **LINK**

Uses a lid too. Lasts 50-60 firings to 800C before the stainless turns to solid rust and gets so fragile you can hardly pick it up. This size just goes in the kiln.



19/01/2017 10:52:39

Not another! I have 1950 books from that site on a tablet. I have read just over 300 of them in the last 18 months, and am downloading at a much greater rate than I can read them. Got to stop...



Thread: Beginners lathe
19/01/2017 10:41:25

Of the two, I'd suggest the Seig.

I did consider a Taig/Peatol when I started researching lathes myself in 2002. I didn't get one. There are so many 'accessories' needed to make it usable that as a beginner I got lost. What was important, what could I do without, and what would be good to have? I didn't have enough knowledge at the time to know the answers to these questions. I was also concerned that I'd end up fitting the things wrong & not having enough knowledge to know if it was me or the lathe that was at fault.

The next thing you need to do is to think of what size work you want to do. The Seig is small. and suggests 125mm between centres. To avoid all sorts of gymnastics with the toolpost & re-setting it to machine stuff near the tailstock, you'll be looking at an easily worked length of 75mm. That is really very small. I mostly machine pens & don't think that's big enough, and pens are not very large! Think long & hard about the size of work you expect to do, and then try to save up for a machine with at least twice that capacity in distance between centres and 1.5x to 2x that capacity in diameter. That will mean you don't grow out of the machine too fast and it'll speed you up on the stuff you expect to do - no need for frequent re-setting of the tool to work at the tailstock etc..

Axial power feed is very important if you can get it, and screw cutting may save you a fortune on taps & dies - it's a trade-off on price there. I don't have a powered cross feed, and for the use I have, I don't really need it on my machine. However, you may want to do items with greater diameter than height regularly, so a cross feed would be good.

The more gizmos a lathe has, it means two things a) the more things a novice can get wrong, but also b) the more things a novice can do. To get the same quality of work from a basic machine is more difficult and needs more skill from the machinist. The best machinists can turn fantastic work from unbelievably basic machines (I saw a video once of a guy with a pole lathe and hand tools machining steel to 0.1mm accuracy. The novice can't do this.)

So, my advice on which lathe to choose from the two you have suggested is 'Neither', for the reasons specified. But if it absolutely has to be one of the two, then I'd suggest the Seig, because there'll be less chance of fitting bits wrong.

What did I choose in 2002? The Warco equivalent of the Clarke CL500M (20" between centres, 12" swing), which I have not grown out of despite doing a great deal bigger stuff on it than I originally expected when I first thought a Taig/Peatol would be sufficient.



Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)
18/01/2017 15:48:05

If you want to avoid the rust, it may be worth taking a leaf from the 'Precious Metal Clay' brigade.

When bronze clay is sintered in a furnace at around 800C the copper & tin components of Bronze PMC can oxidise to the point where the clay won't sinter. To avoid this, the components are put in stainless steel catering tins and covered with finely ground coconut charcoal (2mm granules). This is useful because the charcoal is not contaminated with anything that will promote carbon diffusion into iron, so the iron should not show any property changes. And the charcoal will prevent access of oxygen to the metal surface to cause the rust.

Just a thought.



Thread: Aluminium Grades
17/01/2017 12:28:27

Stress corrosion is a significant problem with 7075, general advice in industry is not to use it unless you have to.

I've had to specify a certain amount of 7075-T6511 in the last few years because of the strength I needed for a given weight, making a lifting beam to be supplied with each box. Our aerospace customer had to go through a massive approval & testing regime to accept it (75k of life cycle testing) - all prompted by their experience of bits falling apart in the sky. Some of the non-sequential tests ended up with very degraded performance, but it was just about OK.

This year the company I work for is making about 450 tons of aluminium boxes, almost all of that weight is 6082-T6. Much fewer problems with the stuff than the fancier alloys.



Thread: Electric Drill-drivers with dead batteries
16/01/2017 15:48:16

Ahh. Thanks for the explanation, Joe. Makes sense of a situation that didn't really appear to follow the rules of simple electrics. So... what I really need is a new 5V drill-driver, so when its batteries die, I can use the PSU. Ho hum.

I'm not keen on buying replacement batteries, I have never found ones that give a life anything like as good as the dreadful OEM ones. Probably my usage is just too intermittent. I will try the car battery route. I had a Lithium battery electric screwdriver (3.6V) and that died in 2.5 years, so I've had no more success with Lithium batteries.



Edited By richardandtracy on 16/01/2017 15:49:46

Thread: Aluminium Grades
16/01/2017 14:21:49

That can be a BIG question, but to summarise:

There are three common alloys available in bar stock, 6063-T6, 6082-T6 and 2014-T6 (alternatives to 2014 are 2017 and 2024 all in T6)

6063-T6 = soft, decorative not too strong, I've found it a bit sticky on my carbide tools. Weldable. Yield strength similar to EN1a, but breaks not much later

6082-T6 = medium strength, general purpose, turns quite well. Weldable if that's useful. Yield strength similar to structural steel, breaks not much later. Probably most easily available.

2014-T6 - strong, expensive, hard to get & turns well. Not really weldable. Breaking strength similar to structural steel, yield strength higher than structural steel.




Edited By richardandtracy on 16/01/2017 14:25:37

Thread: Need to get a Welder!
16/01/2017 11:50:56
Posted by fizzy on 15/01/2017 21:12:25:

For anyone who does want to use stick, never leave your rods anyplace that isnt heated. They absorb water and then are almost impossible to use. Professional welders almost always have them in an oven. If you are having difficulty try warming them to 50 deg c then have another go - you will be amazed at the difference it makes.

I have found that a little gas blow-torch (such as for soldering pipes) is great. Stick the end of the rod in the flame for 5-10 seconds, then the arc strikes much better. The down side is you have to be aware of one more heat source not to put your hand on.



Thread: Electric Drill-drivers with dead batteries
16/01/2017 11:39:34

Might be enough to run, but not start, the motor.

Must admit there is no similar label on the Dell PSU I tried. It would have been very useful right at the beginning!



16/01/2017 10:39:04

Just thought of a little, rarely used, transformer I have with a bit of oomph.

My 150A Screwfix MMA welder. It's not very good as a welder because the duty cycle is so low and it doesn't make as stable an arc as my Boxford 240/415V MMA welder, so the Boxford gets used exclusively and I'd half forgotten the Screwfix one. It would be wise to check the no load voltage though... face 22

I like the suggestion of using an old lead acid battery. Will give it a go. I have a feeling our car battery needs changing this winter, and it'll be alive enough to provide all the oomph I need for a screwdriver.



16/01/2017 10:23:01

The PSU I used was a 200W Dell unit. It could well be under powered. Must admit I didn't try very hard to take the drill-driver apart yesterday to see the motor wattage. We still had snow on the ground and my workshop is unheated. To call it 'parky' would be an understatement, so when something got a bit sticky when taking it apart, I decided I'd had enough and retreated to the house.



16/01/2017 09:46:32

I have two electric drill-drivers with dead battery packs, one 9.6V, the other 12V. The motor & everything other than the battery works perfectly. It seems a criminal waste to throw the things away without at least trying to do something with them. I'm also not keen on buying another as I know my way of using them kills Ni-Cads in short order. The drill-driver will be unused for a month or more, then used heavily (90-100 2" screws). This is almost the worst usage profile you could imagine for Ni-Cads, and kills the batteries in under 2 years. I would prefer a mains powered alternative power supply that avoids waste & getting a new drill every 2 years. So, investigating mains supplies...

I realised I had a dead computer (motherboard dead, PSU fine) so decided to use the PSU to power the 12V drill driver. First problem was that the PSU needs extra components to make it work (A 5W resistor to simulate the motherboard load and a switch to simulate the computer on/off button). After fitting these bits, the PSU fired up & produced the correct voltages at the correct places.

So, I made a wooden block with brass plates to fit the battery compartment, and used the first available flex to hand, a bit of loud speaker cable. And, as a proof of concept it worked. The drill-driver operated very slowly, obviously limited by the high resistance wire. So, got a higher current rating wire and... stopped the PSU dead in its tracks. It switched off every time I pulled the drill-driver's trigger. It seems the start-up current draw of the drill-driver's motor triggers a crowbar circuit in the PSU.

So, next attempt, a car battery charger: Insufficient oomph at low speeds, safety cutout did its job and no power to the drill-driver.

Does anyone have any suggestions I could try before I end up throwing away a perfectly good drill-driver & buying another whose battery pack will be just as dead before the end of 2019? I have a 2.4Ah nearly dead Moped battery that could possibly be used as a buffer for the battery charger. This battery was used for the starter motor until it decided to do what happens to all old car batteries. May hold some charge still.

I just hate the waste, and want to avoid throwing away something that works. Alternative uses for the motor will be interesting too. But it whatever the alternative use is, it needs to be powered somehow.





Edited By richardandtracy on 16/01/2017 09:48:17

Thread: Clark CL500m run-out
14/01/2017 15:55:35

Take a look at how to dismantle the headstock here:

It shows the headstock is attached to the bed in the same way as a tailstock, and could, as a last resort, be shimmed laterally if needed.

Of interest if nothing else.



Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
13/01/2017 09:56:04
Posted by John Stevenson on 12/01/2017 20:10:56:

Why do / did all Reliant owners used to have those flip top purses ?

Inquiring minds would like to know.

Was it a right of passage ?

Never had a flip top purse. Just like the Queen, I never carry cash. Unlike the Queen, it's because I haven't got any to carry.

I hated, loathed & despised the Robin. Mine was cowpat beige. The foot well was as wide as my two feet, so I usually ended up pressing all three pedals by accident. The ride was catastrophic. The cylinder head gasket blew every time the revs got high enough to equate to 60mph in top. It got rolled over onto it's roof one New Year and had the driver's handle pushed through the bodywork, so I couldn't lock it while parked on the road (every night). And no-one stole the d**n thing! A car caught fire next to it, but the fire brigade arrived & put it out before the Reliant caught fire. I was furious.

Eventually I resorted to selling it for a tenner because I couldn't stand it any longer. And got a real car. A Citroen 2CV. Yep, you can tell the depths of desperation I had sunk to. crook



12/01/2017 16:22:26

In 1990 I legally drove a Reliant Robin on my motorcycle license without L plates when learning to drive a car. As it turned out, I bought a 2CV when I graduated to 4 wheels, so everything I learnt about 'real cars' was entirely null & void. The best advice I got for the 2CV was 'If you can hear the passenger screaming, you're not trying hard enough'.



Thread: Cheap but decent Mini Tape Measure
12/01/2017 14:10:27
Posted by Simon Williams 3 on 12/01/2017 12:36:24:

What Schrodinger failed to take into account is that cats can walk through walls. Cat owners (now there's an oxy-moron) have known this since pre-history, and Douglas Adams documented it.


They can certainly get through shut & locked doors. One of ours has perfected the art of opening our kitchen fanlight and going through it in such a way it latches itself closed after he's done it. Had us baffled for years how he got out until he did it in front of us.



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