Here is a list of all the postings richardandtracy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Not an industrial injury, but...|
Always hammer daffs into the ground. My wife shouts at me and I suddenly find I have a free afternoon.
Works every time.
|Thread: New Lathe Problems advice needed|
Is it new, or just new to you?
If new, then your remedy has been suggested. Sale of goods act can be quoted if need-be.
If new to you and not new,new, then you have problems.
|Thread: In praise of Oldtimers|
And if it can be put off 'til tomorrow, why not put it off a bit more? And never do it?
|Thread: Article Suggestion "White Elephant & Why"|
My 50g per shot max injection moulding machine. Got from the skip at work. It works, but the moq for plastic granules is around a tonne, so quite a bit more than I need at home. I have about 500g left, and after that the thing will be useless.
The Boxford shaper is used, just not often, and I use it so rarely that I tend to forget something and the first couple of hours work from it tends to be 'close, but not close enough' and thereby scrap.
|Thread: Chester Crusader screw cutting ratios|
I don't know if the program I wrote for a Clarke 500 type lathe could be adapted for you. Take a look at this thread:
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=130270 [sorry, my tablet can't cope with the forum's code to make it a live link]
It may suggest some different wheel combinations for you.
|Thread: Twisted lathe bed - Portass Model S|
I have a query.
Have you checked the twist on the ways as well as the twist under the feet? (Your initial statement could be read as either way) If the ways are twisted, you need to care. If it rocks on its feet with no twist to the ways, who cares? You can use a wedge to stop the rocking.
Given the age of the lathe, if it's the ways that have the twist, I'd recommend that it's recycled.
Edited By richardandtracy on 15/11/2017 12:47:17
|Thread: A model engineer gone wrong?|
I do like the idea of being able to make a gun, but have no desire to do so. The technical challenge is high, but probably no higher than getting an LTD Sterling engine to work. And the latter is much more fascinating.
My main feeling after the article was - glad he was caught.
|Thread: Alloy Pistons|
Anodize the rubbing face seems sensible for startup conditions - harder surface shouldn't wear so fast with low lube conditions.
6082-T6 hard anodizes quite well, and looks worse than most of the weaker 6xxx alloys. Most machinable extrusions are 6xxx alloys.
Edited By richardandtracy on 14/11/2017 16:37:07
The corrosion problem could be eliminated by hard anodising - diy or local supplier. Might help with wear rates too.
|Thread: making tyre|
Towsure also sell trailer tyres - www.towsure.com
Their ones may look OK. Failing that, you could consider making rims and casting polyurethane rubber into a home made mould, getting the resin from somewhere like www.mbfg.co.uk . I have used their polyester and silicone resins, and found the they do exactly as described on the website. The rubber can be dyed, so getting a good black. PU rubbers are used for castor tyres, so should be load bearing if the vehicle turns out to be hefty. Will take experimentation, though.
|Thread: Leaking coolant tank|
If there is space to do so, a central heating header tank (Wickes 443153) or plastic crate could be dropped in. That should be under a tenner.
Edited By richardandtracy on 12/11/2017 14:51:47
|Thread: What to do with a old bench lathe (relmac)|
Anchor for your yacht?
Failing that, E-bay seems sensible. Better it sees use than take up space to no purpose, or is wrecked by use as a grinder bed.
|Thread: Heavy item for use in fidget spinner.|
Ohh, I don't know. Depends how irritating they are. Best option for really irritating kids is lead shot in a sock, and a good space to swing...
|Thread: How long does it take you to make stuff?|
I find that when making kit pens it takes me the same 3 hrs per pen it did 10 years ago. The fit & finish is better, though. That's after 300+ pens practice.
For the custom fountain pens, its a minimum of 10 hrs a pen, up to 20. Tooling extra.
Edited By richardandtracy on 11/11/2017 20:44:34
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
An interesting conundrum. Does that mean that regardless of geography, your house is in India?
|Thread: Found these behind RPM readout plate on lathe?|
A friend/colleague of mine was once invited on a Dan Air D check test for a 737. The pilot threw it about a bit and an awful noise started coming from (as he identified) the wing box under the fuselage floor. On landing, they quickly whipped open one of the rivetted access panels and.. There was a 110 volt vacuum cleaner with a stencil on it saying 'Property of Boeing Aircraft Corporation'. It had been rivetted in without anyone noticing, and had stayed there for years. Only being noticed for the first time in the test flight my friend went on. So much for aviation standard QA checks...
|Thread: Setting up a website|
I use a web host. Write the site in Notepad/Notepad++, test it with IE and use the upload tool supplied by the web host. All very simple, all very easy. The tool provided by the host is 'CPanel' and works through IE.
That way I have a mirror of the site on my USB stick and can upload it again if something goes horribly wrong. The actual machine hosting the site is someone else's problem.
|Thread: Spurious Accuracy|
Not only is there a problem of spurious accuracy, but I think there is a problem with the perceived need for spuriously good fits.
I'm currently designing a bit of kit with a 5ft diameter slew ring using a certain German made plastic bearing material. I wanted to know the 'best' fit for good slewing and reduced friction under a large overturning moment. I was thinking that .005 mm would be about right, as that seems to be the sort of clearance for a bush bearing.
Not a bit of it. 0.25mm was to be the absolute tightest I should go to, according to the bearing manufacturers advice. And preferably with more clearance than that. It's something I will have to look at elsewhere, too.
|Thread: Material for swarf guards|
Generally acrylic is more stable art organic fluids than PC, but, as shown, there are weaknesses. PC crazes and can shatter when contaminated with petrol, which is why I was surprised in its use for m/c helmets. I have an old PC one that I inspect closely on a regular basis, and will dump it as soon as the visor crazes.
However, in normal use for guards, PC is tougher.
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